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Today there are literally thousands of different styles of darts made each year! Why?! GREAT QUESTION! PLEASE PAY ATTENTION HERE! If there were a perfect dart, there would be many more SATISFIED DART SHOOTERS in the world AND - THEY WOULD BE BUYING LESS DARTS! Please pause a minute or two here and think about what you just read AND also how much LESS, dart manufacturers would be selling darts! Also, while you are at it, ASK YOURSELF, WOULDNíT DART MANUFACTURERS BENEFIT MORE FROM DARTS SHOOTERS KNOWING LESS ABOUT HOW THE MECHANICS OF SHOOTING A DART WORKS AND WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHEN PICKING OUT A SET OF DARTS! The world annually spends, just for darts alone, in the neighborhood of about 500 MILLION Dollars ( U. S. )! WOW! Want to hear another wow? Of the estimated 100 million competitive darts players there are in the world, a staggering 11%, or 11 million own more than ten sets of darts each! Double WOW! Do you think that there MIGHT be something WRONG here?


The most important feature of a dart, that determines QUALITY and WORTH, is the barrel's grip. If you have the best grip, you are going to get three things: control, consistency and accuracy. If you donít have the proper grip, then those three items go out the window no matter how much knowledge you have and practice you perform.

What is the BEST grip to have on the dartís barrel?

There are two concepts that you need to know about. The first is the mechanics of what PROPELS a dart. In essence, where the best accuracy lies is in your ability to PUSH the dart forward in the same way one would throw a ball or shoot a basketball. Basically you need a surface to push up against. You donít want a large surface, because you couldnít throw tight groups, but at the same time you donít want to be "pulling" a ten-penny nail either. MOST DARTS ON THE MARKET TODAY ARE "PULLERS," the WORST kind of dart to have! I wonder why, LOL!

The muscles you use to PUSH, and the muscles you use to PULL are different. Itís all in the FEEL. Test it out yourself, PLEASE! Find a grooved straight barrel dart and another one that maybe even has a "diamond knurl." The difference is VERY noticeable!

You are ONLY going to get the BEST GRIP from a grooved dart. These grooves incidentally, need to be wide enough for the skin on your fingers to get into. Itís the LEADING EDGE of the groove that your skin is PUSHING against when you are propelling the dart! Don't be fooled by the hairline wide grooves. They do NOTHING! The best gap is in the area of about 1/8 th of an inch or WIDER, and the grooves should extend the entire length of the barrel. By NOT having the grooves in the front area of the dart (where you arenít gripping), this will throw off the balance needed when your dart is airborne. Because the flight is in the rear of the dart, the dart itself is always going to be NOSE heavy and unless thrown perfectly every time, it will enter the board at a slight angle with the flight closer to the ceiling.

The second thing you need to understand is "PIVOTABILITY." Hold a dart in your hand, and slowly make the arm motion as IF you are going to throw it. WATCH YOUR THUMBNAIL! As your hand comes forward, NOTICE that the thumb is pivoting on the barrel as the dart barrel is staying relatively horizontal. This is IMPERATIVE in consistent throwing because if your grip was TOO GOOD, the dart wouldnít come OFF YOUR FINGERS NATURALLY due to it sticking to your skin, AND if the surface was too SLICK, the dart would also come off your fingers even more uncontrolled. If you have a set of darts that has one of those rubber (sticky) surfaces, hold it like you are going to throw it and instead take the nose of it as it is sticking out and move it up and down between your two fingers. You will feel a lot of resistance on the entire surface of your fingers where the dart is touching. This dart will NOT come "OFF" your fingers naturally and will be doing some funny things. Try this with a grooved barrel and you WILL notice that the dart will pivot EASILY! PLEASE take the time to test this for yourself! I wonder why most new darts have a smooth POLISHED metal surface? LOL! READ ON, there's MORE!

Well, lets say you have had ALL the right equipment all along and when you first started shooting this set of darts, you were HOT all the time! But, over the last year or two, your STUFF just isnít what it used to be. Whatís happened? Well itís tough to see, literally! Darts, whether they are tungsten or not, will show age, chip and decay over time! But itís very difficult to see with the naked eye! When you are throwing tight groups, the INCOMING dart is going to strike the leading edge of the groove! This is the area that you are PUSHING against for CONTROL! This edge will deteriorate over time and the difference is so slow that it will sneak up on you. The only way to stay ahead of NOT letting this wear ruin your game is to make constant monthly inspections of all three of your darts by way of a special magnifying glass that we sell in out catalog. This is the same magnifying glass that IBM uses to make spot checks on their computer chips! SEEING is BELIEVEING!


LET THE BUYER BEWARE! You arenít kidding when it comes to darts! I just thought of a great idea (just kidding, but just follow along and youíll get the point)! Iíll come up with a dart that is so thin that you can put 10 darts in a tight grouping about the size of this letter "o" BUT they are so thin that the barrel resembles a human HAIR! Unfortunately, you wonít have much surface area of the dart to control them. On the other hand, I could think that a large surface area of a barrel would give me some GREAT CONTROL, but they would be so heavy I not only couldnít throw tight groups due to the barrel diameter but Iíd be too tired to play more than ONE GAME! Lastly, a long thin dart is great for both weight and throwing tight groups, but there is a distinct problem in controlling the dart due to the fact that itís very long! A good rule of thumb here is to only shoot with darts that are no more that 2 and 3/4 inches! There are quite a few darts that are in the 3-inch range and up. I know one manufacturer that doesnít have anything less than 3 inches. I wonder why!

Obviously, for control, we need the maximum surface area for control. Secondly, for grouping, we need a relatively thin dart. Thirdly, for longevity, we need a dart that will not be so light that we lose the control nor a dart that is so heavy that it becomes tiresome after a few hours of play.

What is the answer? Tungsten! Itís dense, durable, and it has more FEEL to it! DONíT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON ANYTHING ELSE! If there is a metal out there thatís MORE dense, and doesnít have any flaws, then GO FOR IT! DONíT BUY CHEAP DARTS. The price you pay for two sets of garbage darts will more than pay for one GREAT set of darts! By the way, ASK YOURSELF THIS QUESTION AND BE TOTALLY HONEST. How many sets of darts do you buy in the course of a two-year period? If your answer is 2, youíre ok. If itís 3 to 6, will save you some serious Moo La. And if you buy more than 7 sets, you are going to love for the rest of your life! Guaranteed!


The second feature of the barrel that determines quality and worth of a dart is the POINT! If you donít get this point, your board WONíT EITHER! In steel tipped darts, it is INEVITABLE that the tip of the dart is going to hit the wires that separate the dartboardsí targets. It is a FACT OF LIFE, and you need to ACCEPT it. If you DON"T you are going to lose countless darts falling on the floor. They ARE NOT going to do you any GOOD on the FLOOR. However, there is ONE THING you can do about it. The next time you go to buy a set of darts, spend a little extra money and get a set with a MOVEABLE POINTS! Darts is a game of ADJUSTMENTS. If you canít adjust and adapt, your losing percentage is going to CLIMB HIGH! Donít be "An old dog that canít learn any new tricks!" A close friend of mine that is a rated chess master has a saying; "I NEVER BEAT A WELL MAN." at this time is developing the PERFECT DART and it comes with a moveable point. We feel that it is flawless and 99% guaranteed on bounce outs, unless the point hits the intersection of TWO WIRES. There are flaws in most of the existing moveable points that are out in the market today and we are pleased with what we have in store for you in the very near future! This is definitely TOP SECRET! COMING SOON!


When you get your NEW set of darts, you will get, 95% of the time, a set of aluminum shafts of medium length and a set of standard flights. There are three things that affect the aerodynamics of the dart, and they are: 1) the weight of the barrel, I wonít mention the shape due to the fact that most are a "straight cylinder," except for the torpedo shapes, and there isnít much of a difference between the two, 2) the shaft and 3) the flight.

Shafts are made of a handful of different materials. Aluminum, nylon, plastic and a couple of others I wonít mention. Most dart shooters of the novice and new caliber tend to be trusting when they get their set of darts and just continue to believe that they were given the best equipment to aid in their search for DARTS EXCELLENCE! Maybe, and maybe not! Donít take things for granted! Experiment! After all, arenít you doing that during your practice sessions? Keep an open mind and try different dart components. Throw your darts with aluminum shafts for five minutes, and then try nylon shafts for the next five, and then the next and then the next and so on! What I am about to tell you, I donít want you to take for granted either so you need to check it out for yourself! I feel that the best shaft for a dart is the nylon shaft. To me, it gives ME a more natural FEEL for the flight, trajectory and control of the dart! Want to know something thatís VERY interesting? Aluminum shafts are MORE EXPENSIVE! I wonder why they put them in the packaging if the cheaper nylon ones work better? Again, donít trust me either, TEST IT OUT YOURSELF!

The length of the shaft is as crucial as the material of which it is made of. Most all dart, are you wondering yet? come with shafts of medium length. The longer the shaft, the more the drag sets in, and the more difficult it is to control the dart. So you have to arc the dart more, giving more opportunity for ERROR during the trajectory. On the other hand, short shafts, micros, extra shorts and shorts are difficult to control. WOW! Whatís left? Well, want to hear something interesting? Well, if you look at the lengths of the three smaller shafts, micro-extra short short. YOU WILL NOTICE THAT THERE IS A DEFINITE PROPORTION BETWEEN THE THREE OF THEM! THE MEDIUM LENGTH, WHICH IS TOO LONG, HAS A DOUBLE OF THE PROPORTION THATíS BETWEEN IT AND THE SHORT!!!!!!! ITíS AS IF THERE WERE ONE THAT WAS MISSING. Interesting? I certainly think so, and I hope you do too! is currently working on manufacturing THIS specific size and in NYLON, so that itís cheap and it actually works better than aluminum! We are here for the long haul!


If I havenít opened the proverbial "Can of Worms" before this, this should certainly do it! Some 41% of all dart shooters shoot with the "standard" flight. Incidentally, 47% shoot with aluminum shafts too. Those numbers are awfully close together! There might be a correlation here! Well, if there was one SPECIFIC, significant component that affects the control, consistency and accuracy of shooting a dart more than anything else, it would have to be the FLIGHT!

Correct me if Iím wrong. The longer a dart has to fly the MORE chance of ERROR could occur during the flight. Do you believe that? I do! Well, I also believe that the larger the surface area of the flight, the more DRAG that will occur during flight. TESTING TIME! Please do so! Get out that set of coal crackers that you have in the bottom of your assorted darts supplies box and give those babies a try! Remember to keep an open mind at all times! The only thing you have to lose is the possibility of losing fewer games! After all, THAT is why you are all here! In comparing the two different flight, you will find out that YOU WILL HAVE TO THROW THE STANDARD FLIGHTED DARTS HARDER, although the coal crackers will still, NOT feel that great! Remember this FACT and donít put away those coal crackers yet!

Next, I want you to find a set of those standard flights with the bumps all over them. Theyíre the ones that are made like that so they last longer! There are a couple different kinds of them and you should have at least one set of them! Okay, now I want you to again compare the difference between the BUMPILY standard flight and the smoothed surface standard flight. Youíll notice that you will even have to throw the BUMPILY standard flighted darts EVEN HARDER than the other standard flights! Feeling the difference yet? Just for ha haís, compare the BUMPILY standard flight with the coal cracker flights. A LOT EASIER! RIGHT! Well we arenít finished YET! Grab those coal crackers again and next, I want you to get a pair of scissors and in cutting off as LITTLE AS POSSIBLE, cut the very REAR edge of the flights from the center where all the wings meet to the OUTSIDE of the WING and by doing so, you will totally eliminate the "ROUNDED" rear corner of the flight. Take your time and try to do it the same on all four wings, Do all three darts. If you have another set of the coal crackers, you first want to compare those FIRST, and then the ones you just cut!

Well? How did it go? Surprised? Well, my curiosity is not so much about how much BETTER the throw of my darts felt, but that with all the darts bought in the world, why wouldnít a darts manufacturing company test these flights out themselves first and then put the BETTER FLIGHTS in the packaging with the darts that dart shooters are purchasing at some VERY STEEP PRICES? OR my next question is even more interesting, IF THEY ACTUALLY HAVE DONE THIS COMMON SENSE TESTING, THEN WHY IN THE WORLD ARE THEY ACTUALLY SELLING THEM?


In looking for a flight that will compliment your game, rather than deteriorate it, look into our online catalog. We donít sell the Hollywood Type, but they are PERFORMANCE RATED FOR THROWING FLATER TRAJECTORIES!

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